Previewing this week for the Paris show, the optical style Superbird represents a new achievement in the use of genuine slate in eyewear to create one-off designs with real technical precision. The frame is nominated for a Silmo d’Or in the category “Optical frames – craftsmanship and know-how”
The new Superbird frame features a razor-thin layer of genuine slate meticulously bent around the edges and curves of the structure in the label’s Tyrolean HQ, with every style becoming as a result a truly unique piece thanks to the multilayered texture of the natural stone material. Rolf has developed special technologies to work with materials like stone and wood because they cannot be thermoformed like conventional frame materials. These includes two proprietary, patented technologies: one for the lenses, which is a glazing system designed with a fine thread guided through two small bores…the design keeps the frame front structurally intact while providing stability. The label also has its own hinge system called the FlexLock, a rubber-elastic, spring-element join. This is screwless and designed for multi-axial movement. When deflected the hinge automatically returns to a defined neutral position combining properties of flexibility, durability and reliability. Above: Superbird by ROLF
About ROLF / ROLF produces one-of-a-kind, design-driven handmade eyewear in natural materials: they include wood, stone and castor beans. Behind every frame is a family-run company and a team of innovators and artisans in Weißenbach am Lech, Austria. (Also known as #planetrolf). Since 2009, the company has developed its own production techniques and innovative technical solutions such as the patented screwless hinge. Every design is conceived, developed and handcrafted in the Tyrolean HQ – respecting its responsible production philosophy. Find out more at www.rolf-spectacles.com
Silmo Preview: AHLEM’s Echoes of Love
AHLEM introduces 17 new frames in its latest collection which features both metal and acetate designs, united by the considered approach to proportion and restraint that has defined the Parisian eyewear label for more than a decade. Bronze is used in the metal frames in the collection for the first time
“This collection follows the same instinct that guides everything we make: A frame shouldn’t compete with the person wearing it, it should reveal them,” says AHLEM founder and designer, Ahlem Manai-Platt. Accompanying the releases is a campaign tracing the arc of intimacy two lovers travel over the course of a day. The dynamic emotional register of the imagery finds a parallel in the collection itself, where carefully judged proportions and detailed silhouettes are designed to complement, rather than dominate, the wearer.
The frames – which will be exhibited at SILMO next week, are described as having been “distilled to their essence” through a rigorous process of editing, whilst upholding core design vocabulary—architectural metals, refined opticals, everyday icons, bold geometrics—rendered with confident new lines, signature details and subtle innovations.
“In design, removing something is often much harder than adding something,” says Manai-Platt. “When I draw a frame, I keep removing until nothing else can disappear. What remains has to feel completely natural, almost obvious, even though it rarely is.”
The collection’s acetate frames are crafted from premium cuts derived from cotton flower, selected for depth of colour, durability and lightness. This season’s shades— ranging from striking jewel tones to translucent neutrals—were tested on human faces (as opposed to sample cards), and judged against changing light before approval. The result is a series of naturally radiant acetate frames that feel substantial in the hand but are lightweight on the face.
The optical frames include the square shape, Houdon, with its distinctive architectural structure, visible wire core in the temples and pared-down artistic colours, ranging from the greyish crystal “November Light” to the soft bluish “Petrol Light”.
Metal styles are electroplated with palladium and finished in 22k-gold, balancing palladium’s cool, strong structure with the warmth of gold illuminating the surface. This season AHLEM announces the introduction of a new material to its metal roster: a temple crafted from a nickel-free bronze, more than a year in development. Most eyewear makers avoid bronze due to its cost and the complexities faced when working with it.. AHLEM pursued it because, once mastered, bronze offers a stability that holds its shape, a gentleness against the skin and a lightness that contradicts its sturdy feel.
“You won’t notice it on the first day,” says Manai-Platt. “You’ll notice it six months in, when you’ve completely forgotten you’re wearing glasses at all. That’s the only kind of improvement I’ve ever really cared about—invisible at a glance, but enjoyed every time the frame is worn.”
Find out more about the new collection showing at SILMO Paris 2026 at www.ahlem-eyewear.com
Jutta Kahlbetzer, Hoffmann Natural Eyewear
Jutta Kahlbetzer is one of the world’s buffalo horn experts, as Co-founder/CEO/Creative Director of IVKO, Hoffmann Natural Eyewear’s parent company. Her passion for the brand’s history and heritage is matched by a desire to explore what is still possible with this luxurious natural material, combining time-honoured skills with contemporary design and technology. Eyestylist spoke to her about Hoffmann’s specialist craftsmanship, the enduring appeal of natural horn and why individuality and time remain, in her words, “the rarest forms of luxury”.
Jutta, thank you for agreeing to speak to Eyestylist. For those who don’t know you, can you introduce Hoffmann and describe your role? Since 1978, Hoffmann Natural Eyewear has been creating glasses in the Volcanic Eifel region made from natural materials – especially natural horn. With this experience and a passion for perfection, each frame is created by hand in around 280 individual steps. Every pair of Hoffmann glasses is a unique masterpiece and of the highest quality.
For more than three decades, I have been working in the international eyewear industry. In 2000, Wolfgang Thelen and I took over Hoffmann, making the brand a very personal part of our journey. I am the creative mind with a passion for subtle communication, technology and planning. I am particularly fascinated by the possibilities of natural horn and constantly strive to push the boundaries of this unique material. As Co-founder and CEO and Creative Director of IVKO, the daily tasks are quite extensive, but on the days I can dedicate myself to creative work, I almost feel a little guilty – it feels more like pleasure than work (laughs). Above: Jutta Kahlbetzer, Hoffmann Natural Eyewear
Hoffmann Natural Eyewear is one the world’s eyewear companies that preserves traditions and craftsmanship in the production of fine buffalo horn eyewear. Why do you think the material has enduring appeal in the modern era and has technology played a role in achieving new standards of production in horn eyewear design? Natural horn has an enduring appeal because it stands for individuality, authenticity and time. Especially in the modern area, time is a true luxury. Every horn frame is unique, and our customers appreciate the craftsmanship, attention to detail and time invested in creating it. At Hoffmann, traditional craftsmanship and modern technology go hand in hand. CNC technology enables precise and efficient production, while every frame is perfected by hand through the experience and skill of our passionate artisan crafts. As the raw horn comes from renewable resources and is collected in harmony with the natural circle of life, for me, there is no doubt, that this material will remain a valuable and future- oriented choice.
Do you find there is still some reticence about working with natural horn or has this situation now changed? In the past, opticians were sometimes hesitant to work with natural horn, as it was considered a sensitive material. And while natural materials do require experience and a delicate touch, there is no need for opticians to be afraid of working with natural horn. Respecting some really basic rules, everyone will discover the magic and durability of this great material and its numerous benefits.
At the Hoffmann booth at SILMO, opticians can also visit our manufacturing station and ask questions to an experienced colleague from our Hoffmann atelier. Hoffmann also gives masterclasses to partner opticians who are new or unfamiliar with the natural material horn. Additionally, we provide glazing instructions and videos to support our optician partners.
What do you personally appreciate about creating fine eyewear at an historic company, and how does the company history continue to play a part in the success of the collections worldwide? What I appreciate most is the combination of heritage and innovation. Since 1978, Hoffmann has built up a unique wealth of knowledge and craftsmanship, which is passed on from one generation to the next while continuously evolving. Our history gives us a strong foundation, but our openness to new ideas and contemporary design keeps the collections relevant worldwide. Every frame carries a piece of this heritage while still feeling modern and individual.
Hoffmann launched a luxury collaboration with Thierry Lasry in 2025. What has been positive about this experience and do you hope to carry the edition forward? Above all, the combination of two distinct areas of expertise. Thierry Lasry embodies a distinctive vision of modernity and artistic expression in the world of eyewear, which meets Hoffmann’s decades of craftsmanship and expertise in working with natural horn. The result is a unique dialogue between bold design and traditional craftsmanship.
The result is a collection that successfully combines creativity, individuality, material excellence and authentic craftsmanship. Never change a running system — stay tuned…
What do you personally love about the collection? I could actually list a lot of points which I love about the collection. What is really outstanding to me is the time invested and the individuality of each frame! As well as the natural grain, which is different on every single horn, there is the handcrafting aspect, which of course gives every frame that unmistakable aura of uniqueness. We believe that individuality is the greatest option we can offer our customers. After all individuality and time are the rarest forms of luxury!“ But my real heartfelt aspect about it is and will stay the strong bond to nature that a horn frame represents.
I note there is some new packaging for the collection. Please feel free to tell us more! We have recently introduced new packaging for Hoffmann. From the outer packaging and case to the cleaning cloth, every element has been redesigned to reflect the quality and premium character of our eyewear. It is a new home for our Hoffmann masterpieces – designed to protect what is truly unique and to create a refined stage for our handcrafted frames. With every frame, customers will also receive a small piece of craftsmanship as a special addition to the packaging, celebrating the natural material and the handmade character of each piece.
Find out more about Hoffmann Natural Eyewear at www.hoffmann-eyewear.com
Technical detail as visual identity at Kaleos
The Barcelona-based brand has revealed new styles for men, showing next week at SILMO Paris – six of the frames have a particular feature described as “a visible threaded titanium screw”
In the Autumn/Winter release at KALEOS, the new collection for men reveals a brand new functional detail which is also used as an aesthetic feature and part of the distinctive visual identity of the frames. Optical models Venkman, Stantz and Cop stand out as three designs crafted entirely from titanium. Models Venkman and Stantz also feature fold-away sun clips.
The collection also explores light constructions that combine high-density acetate fronts with titanium temples with a refined approach to structure, balancing presence with precision. In the sunglasses range, models Reily, Cho and Lippet continue an exploration of contemporary titanium construction, resulting in frames rooted in classic references with an unmistakably contemporary look and feel. Above: a new campaign expresses the contemporary design work in the new collection for men at KALEOS – below, model Lippet where the new titanium screw detail can be seen up close on either side
Model Lippet is an aviator design. The hypoallergenic nose pad structure wraps around the bridge in a pinned construction secured with a screw on the underside, adding strength. The lens rim has increased thickness reinforcing the robustness as well as the overall presence of the frame.
The collection presents 20 new designs in total (12 optical and 8 sun) – each one expressing individuality through the construction. Materials and finishes are explored to create timeless, versatile pieces.
KALEOS is based in Barcelona. The brand concept is described as modern and contemporary, focused on the now. Find out more at www.kaleoscollection.com / Read more on KALEOS on Eyestylist.com: https://www.eyestylist.com/2026/06/sunglasses-season-unframed-summer-by-kaleos/
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KOMONO x Sybrand Jansen : the second chapter
KOMONO and designer Sybrand Jansen are announcing their second collaboration. Originally created as part of Jansen’s graduation collection at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, the frame returns in a new, more refined form. Softened in shape and designed for everyday wear, the latest iteration brings the original concept into a more accessible, effortless expression that’s totally wearable….
For the new release, the concept of the first collaboration frame evolves into a refined and comfortable sunglasses style, with a more minimal structure. Available in black, deep green and tortoise, the collection transforms traces of damage into contemporary objects that feel both futuristic and familiar, preserving the spirit of the original “fractured” silhouette in this collab yet opening it up to a wider audience. Above: a striking more minimal second collaboration design by KOMONO x Sybrand Jansen
Originally developed during his collaboration with KOMONO and the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp in 2025, Jansen’s eyewear design was inspired by a discarded pair of sunglasses found crushed on the street: damaged, distorted, yet still carrying traces of its former identity. Rather than restoring the frame to perfection, Sybrand embraced its broken details, allowing imperfection itself to shape the design.
This second edition is presented as a unisex style and features bright blue or dark green sun lenses. The frame will be on show at SILMO Paris this month. Find out more at www.komono.com